| Author | Message | ||
     glen (Glen) Rating: N/A |
Jeff, A new Aquament 22 shaft cost about $300 all up and ready to install including facing the shaft couple when installed on the new shaft so that it was perpendicular. I did get lots of advice on trying to reuse the existing shaft, but it had too much corrosion and wear. It would have been significantly undersize by the time it was smooth. | ||
| Jeff Roy Rating: N/A |
Glen thanks for getting back to me. I eventually found the set screws and I had to drill both of them out. (trashed 3 drill bits) I then came to the conclusion that the hacksaw was the best tool to get the bearing out of the strut. I got the new bearing and will be trying to put it in soon. The drive shaft has slight scoring on it. I have showed it to a few people and have got mixed opinions on how bad it is. I slid the new bearing over the saft and there is very little play in it. I know that the irregularities in the shaft will wear the bearing prematurely, but I am not sure it is worth the time and expense to replace the shaft (money is tight this year) Glen how much was a new shaft from PYI? | ||
| glen (Glen) Rating: N/A |
Jeff, One more note and I'm done. (I promise!) After installing the new cutlass I carefully used a smaller drill to make a divot in the cutlass so that the set screws had a firmer grip on the cutlass. If you're going for the smooth look, then it's OK to sand down the set screws and epoxy coat them. The epoxy is pretty easy to pick out of the head to remove the set screws when necessary. | ||
| glen (Glen) Rating: N/A |
Jeff, My two setscrews are located on the port side of the center of the tube roughly 1 1/2 inches from each end. These are 1/4-20 thread and I cannot remember the size of the hex wrench. Just go to the local West Marine (or equivalent), grab some 1/4-20 set screws and use those to size the hex wrench. | ||
| glen (Glen) Rating: |
Jeff, Sorry not to get back to you much sooner, my automatic notification of posts seems to have stopped when my ISP changed my domain name. I removed my cutlass bearing by stripping out the plastic and then slowly hacksawing and chiseling out the the bronze tube. This was a slow and painful process since I was trying to be careful to not cut or nick the inside of the strut. Once you get enough of the tube peeled up I was able to remove it with pliers. I had to drill out one of the setscews and I retapped the threads to clean them up. I installed the new cutlass despite initial concern that it was too loose. I had PYI recheck the shaft and cutlass fit to make sure we did not mate up the wrong parts. They were good to work with and they pointed out that according to the numbers, it is NOT an interference fit i.e. it should have some play. I threw the new cutlass into the freezer and chilled it overnight and banged it in quickly the next day. It went about 2/3rds in and then stopped hard (warmed up) so I made a press using a large c-clamp and some wood scraps and pressed it in the rest of the way. I did lubicate it before pressing it in with Lewmar winch grease. (I had that on hand.) It is possible using threaded rod and the right size tubes and washers to make a tool to push out and push in cutlass bearings. I found a drawing of one while searching the web. I was concerned that the cutlass was too loose but I'm happy to report that it runs beautifully - much smoother that before. I've come to the conculsion that most cutlasses are tighter due to misalignment of the shaft and strut. The shaft flange mated back to the engine side flange very well - I could not have slipped in my smallest shim. Now I've got some work to do on my Yanmar. I'm pretty sure the exhaust elbow needs to be replaced. Anyone have any advice on that job? | ||
| Jeff Roy (Jeffr) Rating: N/A |
Glen, How did you get the bearing out of the strut? I have the shaft out. I scraped around and found the set screws. They had to be drilled out. The metal part of the bearing is not very thick. The plastic lining was totaly shot and fell apart. I didn't have anything to press it out with. What did you use? Any advice greatly appreciated. | ||
| JeffR Rating: N/A |
Glen my understanding is there should be very little play in the bearing. do you know a marine surveyor or a marine mechanic that could look at it and give an opinion? I need to replace my cutlass bearing this season too. My shaft is a little worn in the area of the cutlass, but I am hoping to avoid the expense of a new one. Several people have told me a little wear is not to bad -- not ideal -- and to lightly wet sand the ridges with a high grit paper. Anyway, I have not been able to locate any set screw on the strut that would be holding the cutlass bearing in place. Everything I have read and everyone I spoke to says there is almost always at least one set screw and often two. The say trying to press it out without removing the screw(s) will damage the strut. Did your strut have any set screws? If so, can you describe the location of them? Thanks | ||
| glen (Glen) Rating: N/A |
I pulled my prop shaft to fit a PSS shaft seal and found that the shaft was too buggered up, excessive wear, at the cutlass bearing to be re-used. Oh well, I knew it was an older boat when I bought it. So I had a new Aquamet 22 one inch shaft made up by PYI, the same place I bought the PSS shaft seal and the new cutlass bearing, a Caravelle 1 in ID x 1 1/4 in OD x 4 inch long. I installed the new cutlass - I cut it down to finish size after pressing it into the strut. I installed the PSS seal, and shaft and immediately noticed that there is a lot of play at the cutlass bearing (i.e. it's not snug - I can rattle it - but not very much). I was not expecting this - I had assumed it would be snug. How much play should there be with all new parts? Glen |
