Author |
Message |
Deborah Davenport
New member Username: Ddavenport
Post Number: 24 Registered: 04-2001
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, July 09, 2004 - 11:29 am: | |
Looks like I missed notification of both Eric and Brayden's postings...apologies. See http://www.pyacht.net/cgi-local/SoftCart.exe/online-store/scstore/h-h_and_l_woodworking.htm?E+scstore H&L is marketed on the web by PYacht.com -- we found no issues with them as dealer. As to the specs or pattern of the s-curved tiller that we had built, I'd recommend that each of you develop your own. The type of tiller extension you use, the attachment point for it, and the hardware you use to attach it, will all influence the shape of the s-curve and clearance over the coaming. We had found rot at the tiller extension attachment hole in the old tiller. So we West'ed the hole for the tiller extension, and then put a liner through the hole. If you have a permanently attached tiller extension, it (obviously) will not lie flat on the s-curved tiller. We're on a mooring, and tie off the tiller snugly -- had to come up with a new tie-off for the extension as well. |
Eric Yaremko
Unregistered guest
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Wednesday, June 16, 2004 - 12:21 am: | |
Deborah, Do you have contact info for H+L? Did they keep specs/measurements of what they built? If I call and say build me what they built you would that work? Are all the S2 9.1 tillers the same? |
Brayden Woods
New member Username: Brayden
Post Number: 14 Registered: 05-2003
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Monday, June 14, 2004 - 08:44 am: | |
I would be very interested in seeing how you have built such an "S" tiller for your boats, and getting a copy of the measurements. I am considering building a new tiller for my boat to clear the cockpit as well. Any help would be appreciated. I thought I would make a peg template by the end of it and I could share that back into the class once I am finished. |
Deborah Davenport
New member Username: Ddavenport
Post Number: 23 Registered: 04-2001
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Friday, June 11, 2004 - 04:33 pm: | |
We ordered a new tiller from H&L this spring. Slow -- something like 6 weeks. But they built a gorgeous tiller, shaped to our spec, for under $175 (unfinished). This is one of the great values ever! Many thanks to Scott Corder, for the pictures, measurements, etc., that enabled us to get the shape so that the tiller now clears the coaming back. When we started the ordering process, the cover was still on the boat and loaded down with snow. Deborah Davenport |
glen
New member Username: Glen
Post Number: 15 Registered: 03-2001
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, March 07, 2004 - 01:12 pm: | |
Scott, Thanks for the good ideas! My wife is ready to build a new tiller (she likes wood working and epoxy). I'm going to give H & L a call and get a price for a replacement tiller. I'll post what I find out here. Glen |
Scott Corder
New member Username: Pastcommodore
Post Number: 42 Registered: 02-2001
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Sunday, March 07, 2004 - 12:15 pm: | |
Glen, I cannot readily answer your question regarding who might have a pattern for the factory tiller. However, there are a couple of things you could consider at this time: On my boat, a previous owner crafted a very beautiful custom tiller on which the outmost end was gracefully elevated to clear the cockpit coamings in the tiller's most extreme port/starboard steering positions. The result is a subtle sort of "S" shape when looking at the tiller from the side. I really appreciate this feature because it prohibits ANY crew member (experienced or not) from accidentally scarring the cockpit coamings with either the tiller itself (or any hardware protruding from the tiller where an extension might get attached). NOTE: The basically straight factory tiller typically does not clear the cockpit coamings when the tiller is in its lowest elevation. The tiller must be lifted up a little to steer extremely to port or starboard. The second observation I'll make is that this custom tiller on my boat is teak that has been carefully wrapped around a 1/2 inch diameter stainless rod. The stainless is completely invisible on the exterior, but adds structural strength to the tiller. At worst, my tiller might bend (and some of the teak might even crack or break off) but the stainless inside is nearly impossible to destroy completely. In fact, this actually happened several years ago when a crew member stumbled and fell through the cockpit during a hastily executed gybe in a Class race. I merely kept racing that day, and then performed a cosmetic repair at home. One of the nicest features of my situation is that my original factory tiller merely serves as a back-up (or goes into service for short periods when I choose to remove the custom tiller to re-finish the teak). Fair winds and following seas, Scott Corder Class Commodore (past and present) |
glen
New member Username: Glen
Post Number: 14 Registered: 03-2001
Rating: N/A Votes: 0 (Vote!) | Posted on Saturday, March 06, 2004 - 08:27 pm: | |
Well, we were coming back into the dock after the first big race of the year and managed to crack our tiller! Long story short, we were letting some crew new to the boat drive and he jammed the tiller extension against the cockpit side and cracked the tiller at the extension swivel. We've got the tiller home and we're epoxying it back together for next weeks race, but I thought it would be a good time to check on where to get tillers. Does H&L have our tiller pattern? |