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New Halyards

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John Stefancik
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Username: Jstef

Post Number: 23
Registered: 01-2001

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Posted on Thursday, May 12, 2005 - 09:36 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPPrint Post   Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I replaced all 4 halyards in late 2000, so they've been thru 4 long years of racing, and are still holding up. Will probably replace them next year. I switched out the old main and genoa rope to wire with Spectra Warpspeed core 3/16" and covered at the ends (3/8") to fit in the clutches. My spin halyards are 3/8 XLS (don't really think the stretch is as important on the spinnaker). My sheeves were not buggered up from the previous wire passing over it and did not need replacement...we found that the since they were made for rope to wire, they fit the unsheathed Spectra perfectly.
John Stefancik
"Hurricane Kelley" #005
Annapolis, MD
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George Darrell
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Username: George_darrell

Post Number: 10
Registered: 05-2002

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Posted on Wednesday, May 11, 2005 - 06:07 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPPrint Post   Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Jacob,

I replaced all my halyards with Spectra (3/16 but covered at the clutches) however the jib halyard didn't last because the sheave was chewed by the former wire halyard. If you are going to non wire, on the jib, you must replace the sheave. I feel that a wire jib halyard has the lowest stretch and the weight penalty is minimal. If you go with wire you must use galvanized, not stainless!!
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George Darrell
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Username: George_darrell

Post Number: 9
Registered: 05-2002

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Posted on Wednesday, May 11, 2005 - 05:57 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPPrint Post   Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Jacob,

I replaced all my halyards with Spectra (3/16 but covered at the clutches) however the jib halyard didn't last because the sheave was chewed by the former wire halyard. If you are going to non wire, on the jib, you must replace the sheave. I feel that a wire jib halyard has the lowest stretch and the weight penalty is minimal. If you go with wire you must use galvanized, not stainless!!
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Brad Stone
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Username: Bstone

Post Number: 11
Registered: 06-2004

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Posted on Tuesday, May 10, 2005 - 06:03 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPPrint Post   Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I replaced my wire/rope with all rope last month... I need to say I had the mast down which made this all easier. I went with 5/16 Validator II (vectran) for the main and jib halyards, and 5/16 XLS Extra for the spin (Decided I won't mind the stretch on that one - the spin might even appreciate it when the big puff comes, and saved a few bucks). None are stripped.

For jib halyard clearance, I decided to take a bit off that crossbar on the halyard guard for the unstripped 5/16ths to run smooth. Used a Dremel, rounded out the inside a bit, then made sure that area was smooth. It was a hair snug on mine originally (now it's fine), but reading all experiences here on this subject, I get the feeling this gap differs between boats.

As my metal "wire" sheaves were a bit chewed up, I replaced them with Delrin sheaves - got them from Offshore Spars - fit perfectly, and a little weight-savings bonus up there too.
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Jeff Roy
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Username: Jeffr

Post Number: 101
Registered: 03-2001

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Posted on Tuesday, May 10, 2005 - 04:11 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPPrint Post   Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I have replaced all of my halyards. I race so I went with hi-tech line all around.

My spinnaker and genoa halyards were made up out of 12 strand spectra spliced on to regular XLS tails. Any good rigging shop can do it, they overlap the cores where it goes through the clutches which also helps bulk it up. I am pretty sure it is 1/4" spectra and 5/16" XLS.

For the main I used 5/16" Warpspeed (spectra covered with polyester).

I found that nothing bigger than 1/4" will pass between the sheave and the halyard gaurd for the genoa halyard, keep that in mind. Most of the time the rigger will only make the stripped ends slightly less than the I dimension. That would leave a little cover coming out of the sheave box when the halyards are not in use. Unfortunately, the cover and bulk splice will get stuck, so the genoa halyard has to have enough stripped line so that the cover never comes out of the sheave box.

I think all my halyards ran between 130$ and 150$
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Brayden Woods
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Username: Brayden

Post Number: 21
Registered: 05-2003

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Posted on Tuesday, May 10, 2005 - 03:22 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPPrint Post   Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I am in the middle of the process. Because I am not planning to do anything too high-tech I planned on replacing the Main and Jib with rope/wire (as origional) and the spinnakers with 5/16 covered Spectra (choosing to leave the cover on for longevity). I am also replacing all other running rigging, but it will be with basic 3/8 stuff.
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Jacob Clayton Miller
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Username: Claymiller

Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2003

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Posted on Tuesday, May 10, 2005 - 03:07 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPPrint Post   Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I need to purchase all new halyards for my 9.1. I am going to replace the cables but am getting mixed recommendations. Has anyone replaced their halyards lately?

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